Non starter

[Hangman3]

I took off the timing cover & stuck the locker in & noticed that the crank pulley was not completely inline with the vertical marker on the lower timing cover, so have ordered the appropriate crank locker to get it all inline again. If it runs after that, it looks like I will be having to fit a new belt.

[Levaz]

What marks are you timing it against?
The correct mark is on the block, not the cover, unless I read it wrong?

[Hangman3]

Yes I agree. If the job is to be done properly then it needs to be lined with the mark on the block (which it will be). But there are some marks on the lower belt cover, I think 3 marks at 10.30ish position & one in the 12 o-clock position. The 12 one I believe, matches the one on the block but can only to be taken as a guide unless your very brave. With that in mind, the crank pulley mark is at least a tooth & a 1/2 away from it so it needs to be further investigated, especially given the starting issue.

[Levaz]

I'm sure the mark on the block is closer to the 1 o'clock position.

In other news, I spoke to someone last night who's 1.6 rover 400 did exactly what yours did, running, lost power, stopped.
Theirs starts. But runs like a sack of spanners.

Turns out the tappets were gummed up, they were removed, stripped down and serviced, re oiled and it seems fine now

[Hangman3]

Ive tried uploading a pic to show you but the site wont let me.
It is of the crank pulley I took off. Where the key goes in has gone oval, so the pulley can move probably about 2 degrees. It is impossible to time it up with that.

I did notice that the key is only just proud enough to catch the pulley, probably about 1 or 1.5mm, is that normal? it didn't seem enough to me. Also, what ever numpty did it up last time, clearly hadn't torqued it as it was effortless to undo.

[Levaz]

Sounds about right on the keyway, it locates into the pulley for the aux belts.
The ovalness, not so much though.

Shouldn't affect you timing it though?
you want the 2 dots on the crank pulley

[JOHNDQ]

Like you say the pulley does have a small amount of movement, that is normal and isn't enough to cause timing problems same as there is a small amount of movement between the crankshaft and the lower drive gear this is just down to engineering tolerances. If your timing is out it will have to be a minimum of 1 tooth, if like you say its something like 1/4 of a tooth it will be down to cam belt tension etc. You must have a fuel issue but this can be down to a few things. So if you crank it it tries to fire and then dies! Have you removed a spark plug after this to make sure the engine has not flooded (to much fuel being injected) Have you cracked off the outlet at the top of the fuel filter and cranked it to make sure the fuel rail is getting fuel. If the car was running then slowly died as the person before you said it cant be timing, the timing cant just go out of time on its own you would have to have complete failure. That for me also cancels out immobilizer as the system is not down on a rolling code so once its started, its started. Also just to confirm i tried to start my ZR and ZS without the fob, you get a alarm sound, red light on dash and no crack