Ecu kit

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Thread: Ecu kit

  1. #1
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    Ecu kit

    Can anyone help me with my problem? My ecu packed up,whilst removing it I managed to destroy the part number sticker,ive been quoted £120 to fix, but I found a kit for £30,but won't buy unless the numbers match and I know that 3 button key fob ecu kits are rare as rockin horse poo,any ideas would be appreciated, ive been trying to find on google but just keep vgetting quotes none of which supply the part number, im stumped,hhheellppp

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  3. #2
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    Just replace it all, can get the full set from a scrappy, (i always read its easier to just replace the ecu/bcu/ignition lock)

  4. #3
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    Is yours a MK2

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  6. #4
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    105 plus

  7. #5
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    Sorry yes a 105 plus 2005

  8. #6
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    If you want to replace the lot, you need the engine ECU, Pektron SCU and fob(s).

    However, you don't need the whole lot - you just need a working engine ECU. There is a code that the SCU shares with the engine ECU to disarm the immobiliser, and this means the replacement engine ECU and the SCU will need to be rematched, so you would either need to get the car to a garage that can do this for you, or find a mobile mechanic with suitable diagnostic equipment who can come to you. Alternatively, if you remove the Pektron SCU (it is at the back of the air con evaporator roughly behind the centre console) and send it and the replacement ECU to Paul Brown in Brighton, he can match them for £35 (this also includes retrieval of the Emergency Key Access code - useful if you don't already have it; and will also reset any of the programmable functions that you might want enabling/disabling such as the speed locking or dribble wipe operation within the same fee: see https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/. On that site he describes how to remove the SCU from the car - it is imperitive that you disconnect the car battery before unplugging the connectors from the SCU!

    Engine ECU failure is a rarity - are you sure that your engine ECU has failed?

  9. #7
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    Mechanic rekons so,it started a while back, I'd try starting the car but when I turn the key ignition lights came on but there was a little beep then silence so out of luck I pressed lock then unlock on the key fob then turn the key and she would start,also intermittent horn problems, this went on for a few months then the alternator packed up so I replaced that,went to start car nothing, no key fob response, got that checked out,its fine, I think thats about the jist

  10. #8
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    I have removed the pektron and ye it was a bit of a pain but the security rivits on the ecu were worse eh haha

  11. #9
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    The mechanic I use has an mgzr as does his wife, apprentice and loads of his mates,so am pretty sure he's right, and its the bloke in Brighton that quoted me,I was just looking for a cheaper alternative and was offered this deal and though I could even keep it for a spare

  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark66p View Post
    I have removed the pektron and ye it was a bit of a pain but the security rivits on the ecu were worse eh haha
    I know what you mean - they are actually bolts, but have a security head which shears off when tight - I usually find a pair of mole grips can get a grip on the edge of the remains of the head (provided the mole grip jaws are not worn and rounded). The bolts that hold the metal shield around the alarm sounder are the same - I've removed mine and replaced them with normal flange bolts just in case the alarm goes off and won't stop (which does seem to happen sometimes, particularly if the sounder has got moisture in it) - I didn't fancy trying to undo the security shear bolts with the siren screaming in my ears the whole time - I'm deaf enough as it is

 

 

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