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\r\n have copied a post from the "other" site as i find it is a simple and easy way to explain why the Diesel is by far so much easier and less costly to mod than the petrol 
. . . as you know the L-Series comes in 2 types . . . the 100bhp and the 115bhp . . . both these can be modded and tuned at very little cost and effort to give up to and above 160 bhp . . . so for a car that can give a standard petrol 160 a run for for its money and also still has loads more torque and will still give a good return on your fuel (45-50 mpg) . . .then the Diesel is a great but cheap toy to have imo (gunna love the haters) . . . the plus side of all the Diesels is they are well built and will not suffer the hgf as like the petrol cars . . . they will handle the mods and as long as your not over doing it and keep changing the oil and filters often they are vrtually Bullitt proof tbf . . . i have had mine 4 years now and tbf its done over 100k on the same engine . . . yes iv had faults but just general wear and tear . . .
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\nnegative points -
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\nparts are becoming harder to find and more expensive 
. . . FACT !!! . . but a few fellow derv owners are saying landrover still stock some parts as it is basically the same style engine as the early freelander . . .
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\nthe common faults on mine (others may add to this) . . .the hoses at the front i.e. the radiator hose and the boost hose are so tight together that they melt and bond with each other and can split after a while . . . . make sure you either change these to steel pipes or get a divider to go in-between them . . .
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\nthe thermostat oil seal also is a common fault on mine as i have now had 2 of these . . . not cheap as you have to buy the whole set up but when they go you know about it
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\nbut thats about it for the negative side engine wise anyways
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\nso here is a list below to get your Derv to a better standard courtesy of another Derv owner (others can also add there mods too)
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\nPut simply, the standard solid 262mm setup is not adequate for spirited driving, so first thing I would change would be the brakes to at least 262mm Venteds with decent Discs and Pads. I use 282mm\'s off a ZR160 / ZS180 and I cannot complain. They stop the car brillaintly and are what I would recommend.
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\nFirst thing first would be to fit a boost gauge. Very usefull when running to check for boost leaks / spikes and other boost related problems. A decent boost gauge is essential when trying to adjust the boost.
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\nSDI injectors. Gains 30-40bhp alone on standard map - The simplest way to get big gains from L-series for cheap is to fit some. Available in the older Rover diesels (200/400/600 SD or SDi engined). Usually selling for around £50. It is necessary to replace the brass sealing washer when changing injectors. Might cause a bit of excess smoke and you might loose an MPG or so, but it will completly transform the driveability of the car. Fitting these injectors will more than likely increase your boost a bit also.
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\nAdjusting boost. Gains around 5bhp - 19PSI - is the number you are aiming for. There are a few ways to increase the boost. Either by adjusting the actuator, or by fitting a boost controller. Adjusting the actuator is easy and free, however might cause issues with \'boost creep\' where the actuator opens slowly taking a short while to reach full boost. Boost controllers are relatively easy to fit, and are fairly accurate. It has been proven on a dyno that the standard turbo set to 19PSI produces more power than when it is set to 22psi. Due to size of the turbo, and the temperature of the air being forced though. Running much more than 19PSI may also dramatically reduce the life of your turbo. I wouldnt expect huge gains from adjusting the boost pressure, but it will help reduce smoke, and will add a few bhp also. If you are planning on fitting SDI injectors, I would not touch the boost until they have been fitted. When I fitted my injectors my boost climbed to 18PSI on its own, so just needed a tweak to get it perfect.
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\nAir filters - When at a high level of power, an open cone would help increase the air flow at the top end. Low down the standard setup gives a bit more grunt. Either will be fine.
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\nDecat & Exhaust Gains 10-15bhp - You can either remove the insides of your cat, or get a De-cat pipe made up for best results. It is important that it is 2.5" Dia though. Ones for a ZR160 are not. Really only the backbox is restrictive. the standard intermediate pipe does not have any silencers so isnt too bad, but the best bet is a custom made 2.5" catback ssytem. It wont do any harm fitting a Janspeed ZR160 backbox, but this is only 2.25" pipework, but still better than the standard setup.
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\nRemaps. Gains 20bhp+ - The best way to tidy up your car after all the mods. A decent remapper should be able to finish your car to around 150-160bhp and 240-250lb/ft torque. Almost anything you can think of can be done on your map. I had 141bhp before the remap with all the above mods, and 161bhp after. I also got it set so when on less than 80% throttle the fueling is greatly reduced, so I have hardly any smoke and the car is very economical when driving normally, but I still have all 161bhp on tap whenever I put my foot down. It is worth noting that the standard clutch is only rated to 250lb/ft, so I would get your torque limited to 250 to prolonge the life of your clutch. Kevlar clutches are available if you fancy pusing the boundarys.
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\nLimited Slip Diff - With all the extra power, you might want to consider a Limited Slip diff to help torque steer, and to help the car go round bends. Torsen Type B\'s available from the Turbo PG1 box\'s and also the BRM\'s. Quaife LSD\'s are also available if you have more money to spend.
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\nTotal: around 160bhp & 250lb/ft and 50mpg
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\nAt this point you are pretty much at the limit of reliable power. Anything over this gets expensive, with hybrid turbos, or NOS, and Kevlar clutches you will be looking at thousands of pounds to get more than 170bhp.\r\n
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\r\n thanks Jake \r\n
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\r\n Is increasing the boost up to 19psi ok with out remaping or will it come with an over boost fault??\r\n
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\r\n Yeah, you can increase the boost without a remap!\r\n
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\r\n Thanks i May give that a go then.\r\n
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\r\n how about blanking the egr valve or does it do nothing?\r\n
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\r\n Fire questions my way, I have a considerable amount of knowledge after tuning an\r\n
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Originally Posted by
Cruizer\r\n
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Fire questions my way, I have a considerable amount of knowledge after tuning an
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\n???? Nath lol\r\n
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Originally Posted by
Mark Vin Diesel\r\n
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\r\n I have read your article with interest I have recently bought a ZR with the 2 litre l series engine (115)and I am well pleased with my purchase so far ,I do have one issue you may be able to help with though,under load when the engine revs over 3250 rpm it feels like it just cuts out and misfires and I get a lot greyish smoke out the exhaust and a smell of diesel,up to this point the engine pulls like a train,any suggestions, thanks in advance.\r\n
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*Newbie*
I have read your article with interest I have recently bought a ZR with the 2 litre l series engine (115)and I am well pleased with my purchase so far ,I do have one issue you may be able to help with though,under load when the engine revs over 3250 rpm it feels like it just cuts out and misfires and I get a lot greyish smoke out the exhaust and a smell of diesel,up to this point the engine pulls like a train,any suggestions, thanks in advance.
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