Fitting Coilovers

[ben]

Can anyone who has fitted their own coilovers let me know

1. How to remove the strut from rear? (Just as easy as front?)
2. Do you compress the springs/coils to tighest when fitting.. then adjust?
3. What needs doing after fitting? Everywhere I keep reading says 'alignment' and they're talking about £70 being the cheapest..??

Cheers

[ritchy]

The rear strut is 2 nuts at the top in the boot and one bolt at the bottom, its all dependant on whether the lower bolt comes out okay.
Alignment, there isn't a lot of other adjustments on the zr other than the front toe in/out, most places will do this for a half hours labour.

[Longerz]

gaz or avo

[ben]

Gaz

[ben]

The rear strut is 2 nuts at the top in the boot and one bolt at the bottom, its all dependant on whether the lower bolt comes out okay.
Alignment, there isn't a lot of other adjustments on the zr other than the front toe in/out, most places will do this for a half hours labour.

Awesome, cool.
Well car is at garage from Saturday until whenever he needs it 'til.
So once its back I'll coat it all in WD40/similar and do the next day probably.
Cheers

[xanadu]

I got some copper grease or something meant to be for loosening, it works really well, the only issue though is its much messier than WD40.

[ben]

Right, I attempted the rear twice last week and the bottom bolt is NOT moving. Going to getting/borrowing an air gun or getting/borrowing a MAHOOSIVE breaker bar and going again.

I attempted the front yesterday afternoon.. Top bolts come loose easily, as you'd expect. Brake line cables can be loosened and moved away, no problem. That main 15mm is a pain (the same as the rear)

I have tomorrow off, so intend to get a bottle of WD40 on each bolt (haha) tonight and let it soak all night.

I have some photos from removing the struts (stole from interwebs) and have a few questions if someone can help


1. Rear - What does loosening the nylon bolt do? If I am not taking the springs off (as its a complete strut swap) I won't need to do this will I?
Rear_Topstrutboltnylon.jpg
2. Rear - The bottom strut bolt isn't reverse-threaded is it? Normal 'lefty loosey righty tighty' haha?
Rear_Bottomstrutbolt.jpg
3. Front - Same question about the nylon bolt on top strut - No springs removing, so does this need doing?
Front_Topstrutboltnylon.jpg
4. Front - Bottom bolt, just the one bolt at the bottom (in the picture) and the brakeline secure bolt needs taking off? (And the 3 top strut bolts obviously)
Front_Bottomstrutbolt.jpg

Thanks guys

[Light Sabre]

Taking them in order:

1. This nut holds the strut together. If you undo this without removing the strut from the car, the spring will come away from the strut. Same with pic 3, you do not need to undo this to remove the strut.

2. Normal right handed thread. Get a single hex socket to avoid rounding it off and soak liberally with a penetratring fluid such as WD40 (copper grease is not a penetrating or release fluid/grease it is applied on assembly to prevent siezing)

3. See answer 1.

4. As well as the lower pinch bolt on the hub (as shown in your pic) and the top 3 strut bolts you will also need to undo the lower link arm to the anti-roll bar. Dont let the hub hang on the brake lines, support ot remove the hub

[ben]

I thought the nylon bolt was to do with the spring, so good job I didn't just loosen it anyway! Thanks hew:

Single hex socket? I am using a socket set (from Halfords professional 90piece set) - Is that what you mean? (I have only just starting using my own tools, as I used to just steal my dads off him haha)



Fronts - Ok, so top strut bolts (3), Bottom strut bolt, and the lower link arm? - Which one is this? Can it be seen on the picture?

Thanks again Sabre!

[Stuballs]

Single hex socket = 6 sided. Most socket sets are 12 sided and it's easier to round off bolts

Plusgas is much, much better at releasing stuck bolts than Wd40 but it's difficult to find on shelves. I get mine from eBay.

Also, try using heat on the offending nut (blow torch)